If you’re in Southern France, you don’t need to travel far to visit one of the most stunning gothic towns in Europe. Only an hour’s drive from Toulouse, Cordes-sur-Ciel rises above the fields of Occitanie like a floating city.
This fortified village dates back to the 13th century. It was originally constructed to shelter populations displaced by the violent Albigensian Crusade. Today, the majestic beauty of Cordes-sur-Ciel inspires artists and attracts visitors from all over the world.
Many travelers in Southern France miss out on this fairy tale village come to life, even though it is the perfect destination for a day trip or an overnight getaway. Here’s how to spend 24 hours fully immersed in the enchanting town of Cordes-sur-Ciel. This is your guide to getting there, where to stay, what to do, and where to eat.
How to get there
For those without a car, it is possible to visit Cordes-sur-Ciel by public transport. First, catch a train from Toulouse to the nearest station of Cordes Vindrac. Then take the 707 bus or a taxi the rest of the way to Cordes-sur-Ciel. This journey takes about twice as long as driving, but it is still worth undertaking for a day trip.
The simplest and fastest way to travel to Cordes-sur-Ciel without a car is by a tour bus which departs from Toulouse at 9:30am. However, this bus first stops in the neighboring town of Albi for a few hours. Tickets for this bus can be purchased from the office de tourisme de Toulouse website. Be sure to book in advance to guarantee a seat.
Morning
When you arrive at Cordes-sur-Ciel, you cannot miss the historic town rising up on the hill above you. Climbing the main pedestrian path up this hill is the best way to begin your day. Along the way, you will pass through the Porte de Ormeaux, a 13th century stone entrance through a fortified tower.
As you ascend the hill, admire the gothic architecture around you, and notice all the hidden valleys and winding passages. Don’t be afraid to take your time and get lost. Cordes-sur-Ciel is a small town, best enjoyed by exploring on foot at a leisurely pace.
It can get very hot in the afternoons in the Spring and Summer, so it’s a good idea to undertake the ascent to the top of the hill in the morning. Be sure to bring comfortable walking shoes and lots of water.
Finally, you will reach the highest point of Cordes-sur-Ciel. Now, take the advice of Albert Camus and admire the panoramic views of golden and green fields from the town’s many terraces. The French existentialist famously admired Cordes-sur-Ciel and wrote “everything is beautiful here, even regrets.” After just a few hours here, you might be inspired to compose poetic lines of your own.
Afternoon
Now that you’ve reached the highest point of Cordes-sur-Ciel and witnessed its stunning views, it’s time to explore deeper.
This town hosts many artisan shops to discover. One of the most unique is Éditions Larroque, which deals in embossed, leather-bound books, notebooks, art, and illuminated texts. The editions and art pieces found at Éditions Larroque capture the spirit of Cordes-sur-Ciel and make the perfect souvenir. Its opening hours are 10:30am to 6pm on weekends, and 9:15am to 6pm on weekdays.
Another hidden gem for book-lovers is Le Bouqineur, a used bookstore overflowing with stacks of rare books and records, including a wide selection of English-language novels. Its opening hours are generally 9am to 6pm, but vary slightly by the day.
If you have some energy left over, the Musee de Art Moderne et Contemporain offers an introduction to the history of Cordes-sur-Ciel through art. For 6 euros per adult, you can view a selection of work by artists associated with Cordes-sur-Ciel and the surrounding area inside a historic building. Mid-June until September, the museum is open every day except Tuesdays from 11am to 12:30pm, and 2pm to 6pm. The rest of the year, the hours are reduced to 2pm to 5pm.
As evening approaches, the best location to rejuvenate with a drink is El Jardin des Paradis. El Jardin is more than a cafe, it is a shady oasis to immerse yourself in. For a small entrance fee, you can freely explore the winding stone paths. The garden is full of unique trees and flowers, as well as ponds teeming with frogs and koi fish. The shady nooks are perfect for chatting, or lounging with a sketch book. El Jardin is open from 12pm to 6pm most days in the summer, but be sure to check their website for specific opening hours.
Evening
As the air cools, enjoy an aperitif and the views at an outdoor terrace like Le Panoramique. Later, be sure to take another stroll through Cordes-sur-Ciel as the sun sets. Admire the changing colors of the sky, and the quieter atmosphere in the evening.
One of Cordes-sur-Ciel’s finest restaurants is La Planche de Bacchus. The perfect dinner spot that specialises in a seasonally rotating menu of French tapas and wine, with vegetarian options. The space is small and very popular so be sure to book in advance.
Where to stay
The most unique accommodation in Cordes-sur-Ciel is La Maison Bakea. This Bed and Breakfast in the heart of the historic town offers the chance to sleep within a restored 15th century mansion. With stone spiral staircases, period furniture, an indoor patio with beautiful wood and stone work, La Maison Bakea captures the enchantment of Cordes-sur-Ciel. It allows you to stay immersed in its fairy tale atmosphere through the night.
For a more budget and family-friendly option, there are many historic apartments that can be rented from private host. Another more budget friendly option is Le Relais Bastide de Cordes-sur-Ciel, also located within the town center.