Situated between dramatic hills and the Mediterranean sea, Banyuls-sur-Mer is one of the jewels in the crown of southern France.
The scenic seaside town attracts large numbers of visitors each year thanks to its hidden coves, coastal walks, marine life, artistic heritage and distinctive Catalan character – reflecting its location close to the Spanish border. The sea is central to life here, with multiple beaches offering plenty of opportunities for swimming, snorkelling, paddle boarding and plenty more.
One of the best ways to appreciate the area’s picturesque landscapes is by traversing one of its many coastal paths, each of which leads past rugged cliffs and small coves such as Troc Pineill, Taillelauque and Tancade. Just offshore can be found the Cerbère-Banyuls Marine Nature Reserve, while the summer underwater trail at Peyrefite beach allows visitors equipped with mask, snorkel and fins to discover marine life from the surface, without the need to delve deep.
The scenery nestled behind the town is as equally eye-catching. Banyuls sits amid steep vineyards that form part of a landscape that has been shaped by generations of expert winegrowers. Several relatively gentle walking routes pass through it all, while more intrepid walkers can tackle sections of the GR10, a long-distance trail crossing the Pyrenees, or venture out to some of the region’s most panoramic viewpoints such as the Madeloc Tower, Col de Banyuls and the Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Salette.
Culture is another strong part of Banyuls’ identity, thanks more than anything to a certain Aristide Maillol, an internationally renowned sculptor and painter who was born right here in the town in 1861. His legacy endures in the many sculptures that stand along the seafront, while a walking circuit through the characterful Cap d’Osna quarter allows visitors to retrace his early life and work at their leisure.
Where to Eat
For lovers of freshly-caught seafood, La Table de Jordi (5 Pl. Paul Reig) is the place to head in Banyuls. This charming eatery offers a huge choice of delectable fare gleaned from the nearby waters, along with tapas and cured meats. The wine list is worth perusing too, with several bottles from Banyuls’ own Domaine Saint Jordi. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with two cosy dining tooms where guests can relax and enjoy a leisurely meal.
If a meal with a view is your priority, Le Miradou (Rte de Cerbère) will be hard to beat. Offering Sublime vistas across the Bay of Banyuls, this popular fine dining restaurant is set in a hotel – Hôtel Le Catalan – where it serves up local French cuisine with a distinctly Mediterranean flavour. Don’t miss out on one of the restaurant’s signature dishes – the Tiramisu À la Mangue Fraiche, a refreshing twist on the classic Italian dessert. During the summer months, restaurant guests can also make use of the hotel’s swimming pool.
Another dining option with panoramic sea views is B66 (Av. de la Côte Vermeille), located within the Côté Thalasso Hôtel & Spa Marin, a popular local accommodation option. As well as top class seasonal cuisine served either inside or on the spacious outdoor terrace, the restaurant also features a stylish cocktail bar, while the on-site pastry chef ensures that desserts are a major menu highlight for sweet-toothed patrons too.
Where to Stay
There are a wide choice of places to stay in Banyuls-sur-Mer with something to cater for every taste and budget. One of the best options is Les Elmes – Hôtel & Spa (Plage des Elmes), a simple seaside hotel in the centre of town that combines a prime location with plenty of home comforts and luxuries, including an outdoor pool surrounded by wooden decking and sun loungers. The hotel also features an elegant restaurant with a waterfront terrace, along with a pretty garden courtyard. The Réserve Naturelle de Cerbère-Banyuls is 7km away.
Already referenced above to highlight its renowned on-site restaurant, Le Catalan (Route de Cerbère) is another accommodation choice we’d be happy to recommend. Set on a tree-lined hillside looking out over the sea, this easy-going hotel boasts two outdoor pools, a spa with a hammam, and a bar and restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows. Nearby attractions include the Biodiversarium aquarium and gardens, which is just 8 minutes away on foot.